FIXING THE METER WIRING

Last week I put the center console back in the Fiero but when trying to make up the connections to the panel meters, found that a couple of the connectors were wired wrong. I had the 12 volt power wires going to the panel meter shunt wires. There were two wires connected, that I just could not remember where they came from, so today, measured them with a volt meter and found they increased in millivolts as the interior lights were turned on, then increased more when the headlights were turned on, so reasoned that those were actually the 12 volt shunt wires. 

The 12 volt panel meter is not lighting up, so I removed it and checked it across a 12 volt battery. It came on just fine, so went inside the car to run voltage checks on the power feed wires. When the power was originally connected, 12 volt wires branched off, to go to each of the panel meters. The pack voltage meter is working just fine but I do not have 12 volts coming out of the low voltage meter dc-dc converter, so deduct that it went bad. I will need to order another one from Light Object so hopefully this will solve the problem and the instrument panel can be closed back up.

PANEL METER DC-DC ISOLATION CONVERTERS

The pack voltage and shunt wires were connected and when the motor was revved up, I got a current reading. The meter is a 100 amp scale with a 100 amp/75 mv shunt, so  with the 1000 amp/75 mv shunt, I just need to multiply the reading by 10. I searched for a 200 volt 1000 amp duel panel meter but could not find one anywhere, so figured this arrangement would give me an indication of the amps being pulled. I am a little worried because when I switched power to the controller, there was a loud pop in the rear of the car. The motor spun normally and when I went back to investigate, nothing could be found. The Synkromotive Controller is supposed to have built in pre-charge but maybe I still need to wait a little longer before switching the switch all the way to the start position. 

A TCCH charger was purchased on EBAY, as the Pic Chip for the Zivan NG3 charger, would not turn the charger on. I was a little disappointed when when the TCCH charger arrived as it is a good 10 pounds heaver and shutting off at 137 volts, is only rated at 20 amps. The NG3 is rated at 18 amps at 137 volts so I am not gaining that much going to the much heavier charger. I also ordered an AC contactor and will use it as a fail safe, to shut the charger off at 137 volts.

TCCH 3000 CHARGER

To warm the interior of the Fiero, a spot light was put inside overnight, so it would be warm when I started working on the wiring, It worked really well and I was perfectly comfortable working on the wiring, even though the garage was in the 40s.

SPOT LIGHT INTERIOR HEATER

Awhile back I hooked up a TV to keep me company while bottom balancing the modules, so spent the day working on wiring and watching Superbowl coverage. I didn't end up watching much of the actual game but did get to see the final Sea Hawk drive end with the interception on the goal line.

TV TO KEEP ME COMPANY

Spring is just around the corner and if I can get the meters working, the interior back together and the battery charger back in the car, will be able to start driving it in a month or so. I want to get a belly pan back on the car before it is driven in rain or snow but will take it over to a mechanic with a lift in Kirkersville and have him help me put it back on the car. The previous owner claimed that it dropped the amp draw significantly, then the car is driven on the interstate.

Until next post,

Randy 

LIGHTING THE WAY

I have been having problems with the 12 volt system dropping too low during acceleration when the headlights are on, so this week I ordered a pair of  7" x 6" sealed beam rectangular headlight housings with glass lens on EBAY that will allow me to use an H4 LED headlamp.

6054 SEAL BEAM TO H4 HOUSINGS

Then I found a pair of high power white LED H4 headlight low beam 80W Cree XB-D headlamp bulbs that were also ordered from EBAY. They are 1360 lumen, so will be about the same as the stock Fiero low beam output.

H4 LED HEADLAMP

To hook up the LED headlamps, a couple of H4 headlamp socket headlight plug connector extensions were ordered, again from EBAY. I read on some of the LED headlamp listings that a load resister may be required, so if any of you have any experience with LED lighting, I welcome your input.

H4 CONNECTORS

Also, the jumper will be installed on the IOTA DLS-50, DC-DC converter, that will increase the voltage output from 13.6 to 14.2 volts. The IOTA is listed as having a range from 108 volts to 132 volts, so when the pack drops below 90 volts under acceleration, there is a chance the output voltage will drop to the 10.7 volts where the Synkromotive main contactor trips.

IOTA 14.2 VOLT JUMPER

It has become apparent that the HiPower LiFePo4 cells that are being used are not going to be sufficient to power the EV Fiero effectively. I am not out anything, as the plan is to set up the Synkromotive controller as a fast charger and I will need a battery pack for that. A couple of fellow builders are working on this for their builds, so if you want to follow their progress, below are the links to their blogs.

A 240Z becomes an EV

Saturdays & EV's

The temperature in Ohio was in the teens all of last week, so I didn't do anything on the Fiero, except order headlight parts. Over this weekend we got several inches of snow, so no test drives either.

WINTER IN OHIO

Spring is just around the corner and I am ready for it! January has been a productive month, with a couple of test drives, allowing me to work out the bugs in the 12 volt system and the Synkromotive tripping problem. I also got the tachometer and speedometer working.

After hooking up the new headlights, the next project will be the interior, instrumentation, cleaning up the dash wiring, and hooking up the heater control circuit.

Thanks for visiting the EV Fiero Blog,

Randy