Since my Zivan NG3 charger is down and will not be back in service until next weekend, at the soonest, I continued with the controller wiring. The basic wiring was done with the motor/transaxle cradle out of the car, to make it easier to drill holes and clamp down the wiring but knew I would need to disassemble some of it when hooking up the controller. I have the wires grouped fairly well even though the picture looks like a spider web. Once it is in split loom and in hangers, it should look pretty decent.
Also an aluminum nut rivet was installed for all of the controller grounds and NOALOX anti-oxidant compound was applied on the fit, before setting it and the terminal when the wires were connected.
Noalox Anti-Oxidant Compound
Friday, I ran across the blog of a couple of converters, using the Synkromotive Controller, http://ev240z.blogspot.com/ and they sent me the schematics and instructions to hook the Controller up as a charger, using batteries or an inverter with an AC supply. The problem is, I am only running a 120 volt pack and this set up can only be used if your battery pack is higher voltage than the AC source you are using. More batteries will need to be added to be able to use the Synkromotive Controller as a charger.
The RPM sensor is also hooked up and I am hoping it will be able to drive the original tach. I am using a reluctor ring with 6 protrusions, to try to mimic the original V6 that was in the car but may need to pick up an original filter that was used on the ICE to make it work.
POSITIVE BATTERY PACK CABLE
To keep busy until the charger gets back, I removed eight of the ten batteries from the first row of cells in the front of the car. A bracket will be fabricated to mount the main contactor and shunt and a cable will be run from the negative terminal to the positive terminal where the charger was originally connected. This will allow me to connect the cables that run to the rear of the car without having to splice an extension on them.
CONTACTOR AND SHUNT
While the front battery bank is out, I need to clean up some wiring and find a switched 12 volt source to operate the contactor. As all of the batteries are in the front, I will probably hook the heater up off of the battery pack instead of off of the controller. The original build had a switch installed but I am going to look for a way to use the heater button on the console to turn it on.
The closer I get to finishing, the more I find that needs done. The re-build was started on December 23, 2012 and with any luck, it will be running by this December 23rd. This is my 50th post since I bought the car so thanks to those of you who check in from time to time.
Until next week,