Sunday, March 29, 2015


As reported in past posts, wiring is my nemesis and in the case of getting the console back together, this is no exception. A recent blog entry had pictures of the tablet, displaying the Synkromotive GUI and the dash meters working, (mostly.)

This week the whole center console had to come back out because a couple of wires did not exit from the rear of the console cover and could not be accessed without taking everything apart. As it turns out, the reason they did not exit the rear of the cover is because they were never spliced into the wiring run, they needed to feed from, so the wires didn't even exist yet. Also, the voltage reading on the 12 volt system kept disappearing. When the wiring harness they ran in was pushed forward, the display would go to zero, sometimes but sometimes it would not. All of the connections were checked but still, the readings could not be made to go to zero, consistently. The back cover was removed from the instrument cluster and the wires going into the meters were rearranged. After the instrument panel back cover was re-installed, the problem seemed to go away.

Then when the center dash cover was put back on, the wire feeding power from the heater fan, to the heater solid state relay,  had come loose and was not apparent until after the heater control was re-installed, so it all had to come back out again. Of course, the clip that holds the temperature control cable to the actuator broke, so a trip to the hardware store was required.

Messing up a seat or scratching the finish on interior panel parts, is a constant worry when putting it all back in the car and after leaning my elbow on the center hump heard a crack. The radio face plate had been laid there and I had just cracked the thin bottom strip on it. It was glued back together but a replacement will need to be ordered. Another $40 down the drain!

To make matters worse, the temperature in Ohio dropped back into the teens and the garage is cold. By Saturday evening, the center console cover had been re-installed and all of the meters were still working, so far, so good!

After watching EVTV on Sunday morning, it was back out to the garage. The heater controls were reconnected and when tested, the light on the solid state relay came on. Then the outer cover was installed and the tablet was connected. The tablet was charging but would not connect to the Synkromotive GUI. After a reboot, it connected, so the key was switched to the start position to make sure all of the data was being displayed. Thank goodness, I eased the accelerator because the transmission was left in gear and the car started to move forward a little. After putting it back in neutral and revving the motor a few time, battery and motor voltage and current were reading just fine on the GUI and on the instrument panel meters.

It was time to test fit the radio opening cover that was made to mount the JLD404. After getting a couple of bolts in it and putting the face plate on, it ended up being about 1/4 in too short at the top. I had made this from some foam sheet a piece of Plexiglas, and a piece of aluminum, all laminated together with adhesive. The idea was to snap the meter into the inner plate and have the foam and outer Plexiglas opening a little larger, so the face of the meter will be flush. Looks like a new one will need to be made.

After making a new template, the pattern was transferred to a piece of sheet metal and the opening was cut in the center. The JLD404 was inserted in the opening and wired. When powered up, the meter was set and all of the readings came up as expected.

Onto the arm rest, power window controls and gearshift cover. The 12 volt to 5 volt adapter was left near the driver's side ashtray opening and will be mounted there so it can be accessed if needed. This was the first test fit but everything seemed to fit well.


The interior is coming together quite well and should be completely done in the next couple of weeks. The leads on the 12 volt shunt are going to need to be switched, as the duel voltage/current meter only reads positive values for current. Once this is done, all of the instrumentation will be up and working. The only other items that need done are bolting the fuse box back to the bottom of the dash and putting the bolts in the passenger seat.

Thanks for visiting,


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