After discharging the lowest cell down to 2.7, the module was rested for 2 weeks and today all of the cell voltages were read again. All of the voltages had drifted back up to around 3 volts with the highest being 3.096 and the lowest, 2.068 volts. The lowest half cell shifted from #5 to #9. The two flood lights were hooked up and the lowest half cell was taken down to 2.5 volts. Then the 40 watt bulb was connected and the voltage started increasing again. Once the voltage stabilizes, the 4 watt night light will be connected and the voltage drained until the lowest half cell is down to 2.5 again. Hopefully after a couple weeks rest, all of the half cells will be below 3 volts and I can start charging all of them up to 3 volts. This is kind of like top balancing the bottom and seems to work best to get them to all level out at the same voltage. Jack Rickard at EVTV reported that he was using 3 volts as his bottom balance voltage but this is before his module caught on fire, so I may check with him to find out what voltage he is using now.

Until next time,

Randy

THIRD TIMES A CHARM???

This is the third Better Place Module that I have had the privilege to bottom balance and must admit, after seeing the aftermath of the fire at EVTV, am being a bit more cautious. When bottom balancing the Better Place Modules, they are always on  a furniture dolly, so they can be quickly wheeled out into the driveway should anything go wrong.

As I described in my last post, the process is started by finding the lowest cell and then hooking up two 1000 watt halogen flood lights and bringing them down until the lowest cell is 2.9 volts. The lights are then disconnected and another voltage reading pass is taken to make sure that is still the lowest cell. The volt meter is then moved to the new lowest cell or left as is, if that is still the lowest cell. Then a 40 watt light bulb is used to draw the cell voltage down to 2.75 volts. Once the cell is down to 2.75 the light bulb is turned off and another voltage pass is taken to make sure that is still the lowest cell. Then a 5 watt light bulb is connected to the module and left on until the lowest cell comes back down to 2.75. This is the stage I am currently in, as once the 5 watt bulb is connected, the voltage starts coming  back up and often goes close  to 3 volts before it starts coming down again. I started this yesterday morning and after 25 hours of discharging, still do not have the low cell stabilized to 2.75 volts.

When the cells are drained, they seem to always drift back up but when they are charged seem to always drift back down in voltage, so once I get the low cell down stabilized at  2.75 volts, I start charging them all back up to 2.8 volts or what ever voltage the highest half cell is resting at. Remember, the Better Place cells are LiMn2O4,  not LiFePo4 cells and operate at a higher voltage range, so when they are down to 3 volts per half cell, are pretty much depleted. My controller is set to cut off at 90 volts or around 2.8 volts per cell, so the module should never discharge lower that that.

While the module is being discharged, a post it note is stuck to my laptop to remind me and I check the module every half hour or so. I have found that since the LiMn2O4 cells are so "bouncy," the best way to get them to stabilize below 3 volts is to discharge at a very low level when approaching the desired low voltage.

Also, measurements were taken in the nose of the Fiero and the module will fit, so am thinking about how to mount it. To get the module in from the top, the hood will need to be removed but this may be the best way to install it.

Until next post,

Randy

MORE ZOMBIE 222

I have been following Mitch Medford's quest to break 200 mph at the Texas Mile and ran across his new YouTube series on installing new Voltbox battery modules. The modules use A123 Lithium Iron Phosphate battery cells and are rated at .98KW/module.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS:

Standard energy module

Rated voltage: 12.8V

Capacity: 0.98kWh

Weight: 10.4kg

Dimensions (inch): LxWxH: 

approx. 11,1 x 3,5 x 10,16

Good luck to Mitch in his quest to break 200 mph!

Randy

COOL TWIN MOTOR SETUPS

Not much going on with the Fiero build but while scanning Facebook, came across a very cool twin motor setup that would look very good in a hot rod build.

https://www.facebook.com/evhardware.co.nz

Also found a very clean looking dual AC motor set up that EV West put in  a VW van.

https://www.facebook.com/ElectricVehicleWest/?fref=nf

Spring is not that far away, so am looking forward to getting back to work on the Fiero!

Randy

VOLTAGE BUT NO CURRENT

Sunday after a little wire swapping, the pack voltage started reading on the meter, but not the voltage. Not sure what is happening here but on the old meter set-up both the voltage and current were reading on the pack. The problem was the dc-dc converter wire had come off on the 12 volt meter and it no longer was powering up. Now I can get a voltage reading on the 12 volt meter but the current still reads zero. When these meters were out of the car, I should have hooked them up on the test bench and made sure I knew what each wire was. I would recommend if you purchase any of these, you stick with the same model if you are using more than one and test them on the bench before installing as the documentation sucks!

METERS READING VOLTAGE

Ok, if the meters aren't enough of a problem, as I stated last week, the dome light dims but stays on when the doors are closed. After reading several blogs, I checked all of the door switches but when operating the passenger side switch, while letting it snap open, broke the plastic plunger that protrudes through the door jam, so now the dome lights just stay on all the time. This is bad news, as it means the passenger side panel will need to be removed. To remove the side panel, the seat will probably need to come out. It seems like every time something is fixed, something else gets broken. 

PASSENGER SIDE DOME LIGHT SWITCH

Eventually I will get everything working but am certain the mild days are running out this winter. My garage is small, so it is much easier to work on the Fiero outside and it is discouraging that when one problem is fixed, another crops up causing me to have to disassemble the interior further. 

Until next time,

Randy 

BACK ON TRACK

With the Thanksgiving weekend here, I was hoping to actually get the instrument cluster back in the car but with traveling to my parents and helping the wife clean the house, just didn't get that far. The instrument cluster has been rewired and assembled though and all that is left is to rewire the power leads inside the car.

METERS ILLUMINATED 

D-SUB CONNECTOR ATTACHED

If I can get a warm evening or weekend, the interior wiring will be able to be completed and the instrument cluster can be installed and once this is completed, there is a little bid of interior work to do then think the focus will turn to eliminating the power headlights. There is an older Buick headlight assembly that will fit into the opening and then a Lexan cover is made to cover the opening and act as the lens. This will give the car a better look and eliminate the power headlight intermittent operation problem. 

Until next time,

Randy 

OH NO......SNOW!

There is always a day in spring when the weather breaks and work on the Fiero can be done outside but on the other side, a day in the fall when the car has to be  pulled back into the garage to continue; Today is the latter.

SHOW ON THE PORCH RAIL

The instrument panel was assembled and some final tests were being done on the d-sub connector, that is being used, when the ends of the test leads touched each other, while checking voltage between pins. One of the pins was vaporized and the wiring connections under the center console were damaged. When the center console connections were uncovered, one side was badly blackened. Currently new wires are being run under part of the console that can not be accessed.

Another problem is that while the meters being used are the same size, they are made by different manufactures, meaning the shunt and voltage pins are different on each of them. When making up the d-sub connector for the external wires, care must be taken to connect the correct external wire to the correct wire going to the meter, as the plugs for the different meters look the same but the reading actually goes to different pins on the respective meters.

  

WR-005 METER

    

YB27VA METER

DIFFERENCE IN PLUGS

When reading other blogs, a great amount of respect is growing for these builders. One builder in particular is Fred Behning. He too is reworking his instrument panel  and with the level of complexity involved, completed it in record time. You can take a look at his work in his blog post: 

A Pinch of This, A Dash of That

After the Fiero was completed to take to EVCCON, it has been a little hard getting motivated to clean up some areas that don't satisfy me. My wife and had Chinese dinners the other night and the reading on the fortune cookie really struck home.

FORTUNE COOKIE

My posts will probably slow down through the winter but work will continue, so until next time, thanks for following my blog!

Randy 

JUST ANOTHER BUSY SUNDAY

This morning I slept in until 8am, as I had waited for EVTV to load and did not get finished watching it until 3am. Saturday female d-sub connector was made up with the wires coming from the traction and 12 volt batteries, in addition to 12 volt switched power for the instrument panel digital volt/amp meters. The connector just did not turn out good. I can't see, haven't soldered for some time, and was really never good at soldering anyway, so the d-sub connector looked like crap!

D-SUB FEMALE CONNTECOR

FIRST ATTEMPT OF SOLDERING

As you can see, solder flowed onto the flange and I burnt the insulator between the pins. Not real pretty but I guess, it was good practice.

The first thing Sunday morning, a trip was made  back to Radio Shack to pick up another d-sub female and also a male connector, as the store I went to Saturday did not have the male. Radio Shack is high for these connectors but I wanted them this weekend and of course, there is not shipping charge if they are picked up in the store. Ok, I had the connectors I needed but also picked up some thinner gauge solder as this should help with the solder overflow onto the connector flange. The second problem I had was my inability to see the little connector where the wire needed to be soldered, so made a trip to Dollar General and picked up some stronger reading glasses to magnify the connector when it is being soldered. 

READING GLASSES 

It turned out being a beautiful day in central Ohio, so to help with seeing the solder joint, a little work bench was set up on the Better Place box that is sitting outside my garage so I could work in sunlight. To make sure I wasn't missing something, a Youtube vides was watched and I did pick up the tip of putting a spot of solder on the iron first and then putting it on the joint to transfer the heat to the connection. Everything worked, as my second attempt resulted in a much better looking connector.

FEMALE D-SUB CONNECTOR 2ND ATTEMPT

Now onto the male connector inside the car. By now I was getting a little more comfortable making the solder joints and in no time, had all of the connections made.

D-SUB MALE CONNECTOR

So as to keep with the tradition of going out to the garage, falling down drunk and playing with high voltage, a break was taken and I had a couple of  Stone Ruinations. Ok, I wasn't falling down drunk but 2 out of 3 ain't bad!

STONE BREWERY RUINATIUS

After my little break, I am going to start reassembling the instrument cluster, so may post later tonight.

Thanks for stopping by,

Randy

FINAL PREP FOR EVTV OPEN HOUSE (EVCCON)

After work Friday the final prep work for the trip to Cape Girardeau began. As a side note, I hate the spell check in Blogger, as it marks words as misspelled that really are not, such as Girardeau. It was spelled correctly but has a red line under it, so I have to take the time to look it up on Google just to make sure. 

Ok, back to the prep work; The solid state relay for the heater did not seem to be working correctly so was taken out and replaced with a Giga-Vac contactor. A little over kill but at least I know the defroster will work on a cold September morning in Missouri.

GIGA-VAC CONTACTOR FOR HEATER

When the car was detailed, it came home with the rear view mirror laying on  the passenger side floor, so a trip was made to Autozone to get some rear view mirror adhesive. After pealing off the old adhesive with a razor blade and roughing up the glass and steel attachment with some emery cloth, both were cleaned with the supplied cleaner and a drop of the adhesive was applied to the steel attachment. After holding it in place for a couple minutes, then letting it dry for a half hour or so, the mirror was clipped back in place and seems to be holding just fine. The car was detailed last month and after the local farmer harvested his soy bean crop, in back and to the side of my hours, the car was covered with dust. On the way to get the wind shield adhesive, the Fiero was run through a car wash and looks pretty good again. (From 10 feet)

REAR VIEW MIRROR REATTACHED

As I am not sure if blinker and brake lights are required on a car when being towed on a dolly, sheet metal was screwed to the original slotted motor bay covers. This will allow a place for the magnetic base on the portable tail lights to clamp to on the otherwise fiberglass body. The original slotted motor bay covers were replaced with solid ones to help keep water out. Brian Couchene is towing the Fiero to Missouri and his dolly does have tail and blinker lights on the fenders, so not sure the portable ones will be necessary but wanted to be prepared, just in case.

MOUNTING PLATE FOR TAIL LIGHTS

The hose clamps I used on the brake vacuum lines just stick out like a sore thumb so I picked up different clamps that should blend in a little better. If time permits, they will be installed tomorrow.

BRAKE VACUUM LINE CLAMPS

The trunk is packed with tools, adapter cables, and everything that may be needed to make sure I can keep the Fiero running. Probably won't need any of it as I have never had any problems with the car breaking down but don't  want to get caught off guard out of town.

The batteries are being topped off again as I am trying to have as much charge when we leave as possible. Not sure what the charging situation is at the Cape but want to make sure there is enough in the car to make it from the hotel to the EVTV Garage.

See you at the EVTV Open House!

Randy

MURPHY'S LAW

From WikipediA - "Murphy's law is an adage or epigram that is typically stated as: Anything that can go wrong will go wrong" And so it goes with the Fiero conversion, 

The transmission just will not shift into another gear smoothly while the car is moving. You always have to hunt for the gear and then there is always grinding when the gear finally engages. I have had the gear shifter out, repeatedly adjusted the shift levers at the transaxle, so finally decided to replace the worn nylon bushing on the shift lever pin with new sintered  bronze ones, available from Rodney Dickman. This is where Murphy's law started to kick in!

Two screwdrivers were driven between the head of the pin and the shift lever and the pin seemed to be moving, so a couple more taps were given to the screwdrivers with a hammer. Then there was a snap and the arm on the bracket holding the shift lever broke. In my last post I described drilling and tapping a hole in both pieced to attach them back together. 

SHIFT LEVER BRACKET

After that the pin was chucked up in a drill and emery paper was used to clean up the rust and scale on the pin until the new bushings would slide on and off the whole length it. Upon closer inspection of the shift lever, a notch in the pin that raises and lowers the shift select rod was found. The pin was driven out, rotated 45 degrees, so it would contact the notch in the shaft on an unworn spot.

WEAR ON ROD LIFT PIN

PIN ROTATED 45 DEG

The new bushings were driven in the shift lever and the pin was inserted.

BUSHING WITH PIN INSERTED

With the arm on the bracket bolted back on, the assembly would not go back over the shift arm on the selector shaft, so a puller was purchased and after heating the fit with a propane torch several times and spraying it down each time it cooled with WD40, the puller was put in place and tightened. The shift lever came loose and started sliding off but when the arm was all the way to the top of the threads, was removed to inspect the progress. As it turns out, it wasn't just pulling a fit on the end of the shaft but was pulling a sleeve that goes over the shaft out of the transaxle through the seal. I really wasn't expecting this but found that the shift are had come up enough to get the bracket back in place. Just hoping that a pin holding the sleeve on the shaft was not sheared inside the transaxle. 

SHIFT LEVER PULLED TO TOP OF THREADS

Even with the bracket and arm attached back together with a stud, there was a little movement where the arm had snapped off, so I decided to look for a weld shop that could tig aluminum. While looking for a welding shop in my area, I came across a site called Thumbtack that links you up with local service providers. The information was entered and submitted and to my surprise, the next morning, there were two responses. Upon talking to Matt at Precision Fusion and Repair and being told he could not do it until next week, I explained to him that the car was an EV conversion that was being taken to an Electric Car Show in Missouri and I really needed it this weekend. He agreed to do it tomorrow if I would bring it to his shop this afternoon, so off I went to Upper Arlington, Ohio, a Columbus suburb about 45 minutes away and dropped it off. He assured me he could fix it, the alignment would be correct and that the repair would be stronger than the original piece. If all goes well and I am happy with his work, his contact information will be posted an my next post. Matt said he could also do aluminum battery boxes, so this in good information for any Central Ohio converters who may need boxes or aluminum repairs done in the future.

Ok, on to EVTV and EVCCON. Jack Rickard did a post early Friday morning saying he was canceling EVCCON. I assume most of you know what that is but just incase, EVTV is company in Cape Girardeau, Missouri that over the last five years has produced weekly shows on electric car conversions and for the last four years has hosted a yearly convention that I have attended for the last four years without the Fiero being finished. EVCCON attracts an international audience and is probably the primer event in the world for electric car conversions. On the bright side, there is still going to be an open house at the EVTV Shop, so hopefully Murphy is done with me, the shift lever will be able to be fixed, and the Fiero and I will be able to travel to the Cape for the open house.

Randy

OOOOPS!

The Fiero just will not shift properly and I found quite a bit of play in the shift bracket on the transaxle, so decided to order new bushings from Rodney Dickman. I had tried to get the pin out in the past but it just would not budge. True to form, the bushings arrived within a couple of days of ordering them, so I went out tonight to try and get the pin out. I had emailed Rodney to ask him how to get the pin out and his response was "Take the bracket out and work on it. It is easy to break that aluminum arm off. Try different things to get the pin loose. Go slowly." The way the bracket was mounted, you really could not see the arm he was talking about but after trying to get the pin to budge by driving a screwdriver in the head of the pin, found out the hard way. I thought the pin had started coming out but then found out the arm had broken off. There is another pin holding the bracket on that I ended up being able to get out rather easily. Once the bracket was out, I was able to remove the actuator pin rather easily. Ok, the arm broke off, so I decided to put the bracket in a vice and clamp the arm back in place. Then a hold was drilled and tapped to 10-24 threads. A stud was screwed in and double nutted to bold the arm in place. Not sure if it will be strong enough but at least the are is attached to the bracket again. I guess v groves could be ground in the crack and it could be welded but not sure if that would help hold it together or not. 

SHIFT BRACKET

PIN WITH NEW BUSHINGS

Not sure the fix will work but at least the two pieces are back together. Hopefully the new bushings will cure the shifting problem, as currently, once you are in a gear, you can not change it until you stop with out a bunch of grinding.

Until next post,

Randy

CHARGEPOINT FAILURE

Since I was not able to take the Fiero to the Drive Electric event, it seemed like a good substitute would be to drive up the Interstate and test out a ChargePoint charging station at Walgreens. My cards arrived that morning and had been activated, so off I went. 

Upon arriving at the charger, the space was empty and after parking, got out and swiped my brand new ChargePoint card. Oops, it was not working! A store employee came out and informed me that there had been a power surge and the charger was not working but would probably be fixed on Monday. Good thing I was just trying to test the charging capabilities of the Fiero, as if I was depending on a charge to get home, I would have been sitting there until it was fixed on Monday.

Testing the J1772 plug and circuit will have to wait for another time but that will give me an excuse to take another interstate drive.

Until next post,

Randy

ALL DRESSED UP AND NOWHERE TO GO!

The plan for today was to drive the Fiero to the Drive Electric Ohio event at Easton Town Center in Columbus, OH but even though the chance of rain was supposed to be 25% this morning, it's raining! Making it to the event and back is at the limit of my range, so I don't want to have to drive with the head lights and wipers running, as that may just use enough power to strand me on the way home. The event goes on until 3 pm, so if the rain lifts, I may try to make the journey later in the day.

DRIVE ELECTRIC OHIO

RAIN IN CENTRAL OHIO

Precautions have been taken to ensure I can make the trip without incident, such as, making up new 110 and 220 volt adapter cables, signing up for Charge Point, and mapping my trip to go past my friend, Mark Weisheimer's house, so I can get an emergency charge if needed. I will try to get some video if the rain lets up and I am able to make the drive to the show, so check back this evening.

ROUTE MAP TO EVENT 24.7 MILES

Oh, if you see a black Pontiac Fiero sitting by the side of Havens Corner Road, don't be afraid to stop and give the poor guy (ME) a hand!

Thanks for visiting,

Randy

FIRST CHARGE WITH NEW MODULE INSTALLED

Last night when I got home from work and after mowing the lawn, the first charge was applied to the battery modules. The starting voltage was 107.7 and read the same on the front and rear battery module. I used the TCCH  PFC-3000 charger instead of the Zivan NG3 because I had installed an Anderson connector on the battery module and the PFC-3000 charger was set up to just plug into it.

The TCCH charger is set to stop charging at 137 volts but I also have the ABB ac contactor to disconnect the 220 volt ac input when the EPM-5740TB volt meter reaches 137 volts by opening it's auxiliary relay. This morning when I went out to check on the charge, the green light was illuminated on the charger and the meter read 138 volts. The EPM-5740TB reads a three volts low, so the modules were probably only charged to 135 volts. The JLD404 was showing 57 amp hours put into the modules, so that is probably about right.

Later in the afternoon I drove the car to the Marathon and back, probably about 8 miles total and the voltage after sitting for an hour was 129.4 volts with the voltmeter and the EPM-5740TB was reading 132. 2 volts. The amp hour meter was down to 47 amp hours.

Before I charge again, I will set the offset in the EPM-5740TB and will record the actual miles driven on the next drive but for now, am just trying to get a feel for everything. I want to do an interstate drive and find out if there is gong to be enough in the modules to get to work and back.

Until next post,

Randy

I'M BEAT,,,,CONDUIT ANYMORE TODAY

Ok, I have been crawling under the Fiero all day, drilling and tapping holes so I just can't do it (conduit) anymore today. The morning started out by driving to Ace, Millersport Hardware, and finally Home Depot to try and find Unistrut. Once I got home, I crawled under the car to take measurements but decided that the existing hangers that are being used will work fine if they are clamping onto the conduit instead of directly on the cable, so I came back out from under the car and went to work on trying to get the last conduit gland out from behind the battery. This involved putting some cardboard over the top of the rear battery connections and climbing back as far as possible so the conduit gland could be accessed. I put some needle nose vice grips on the flange and tried to move it but it was solid. Back under the car with a hammer to use to try and tap it up through the hole. When I went to tap it I found that the two holes were empty and the conduit gland that would not come out still had the nut on it. So after using a screw driver and hammer to loosen the nut, went back up topside but the conduit gland would still not come out because it was wedged by the negative battery cable that goes to the controller. After taking a long screw driver and prying the cable a little, the gland finally was free and could be removed.

Back under the car to look for a new location that was accessible, to put the conduit glands. After finally finding a good location, I crawled back out to get the drill, hole saw, conduit glands, and a punch to center punch the plate so the drill bit wouldn't drift. The holes I put in the front deck plate seemed too large, as it seems the hole saw actually drills a larger hole than it's diameter, so this time I went with a smaller hole saw. Before the first hole was drilled, the batteries started running down, so had to go real show to finally get the hole saw through. After drilling the hole I found that the plate I drilled had another plate coming in at an angle behind it, that would make getting the nut on the nipple hard and the cable gland nipple would not quite go through the hole. Again, off to Ace Hardware to get a 3/4 pipe tap, as tapping the hole would solve both problems. While I was getting the tap, the drill battery was put on the charger, so back under the car to drill the second hole and tap both of them. The fresh batteries did the trick and the tapped holes worked like a charm. 

CORDLESS DRILL AND HOLE SAW

3/4 IN TAP

Then the conduit was pressed in the rear conduit glands and run through the existing hangers. The hangers were a little too big, so I must have purchased 1 in instead of the 3/4 in that is needed. Also, two more holes will need to be drilled to run the conduit under the new deck plate where the front conduit glands come through. The conduit was left a little long for the final fit. after it is run through the new holes and in the morning, it will be off to Ames hardware again to get some fitting for the new holes.

CONDUIT RUN TO REAR OF CAR

FRONT OF CAR TO PLATE THAT NEEDS DRILLED

By then I was beat, so after sitting on the porch and having a nice cold Pabst Blue Ribbion Beer, it was time to take a short nap before taking my wife the the QFM 96 radio station Food Truck Fest.

PBR BEER

QFM 96 RADIO STATION FOOD TRUCK FEST

FOOD TRUCKS!

Last month the Fiero EV Build Blog had the most page views ever, so I thank all of you for visiting!

PAGE VIEWS

Continued tomorrow,

Randy

GIVE ME A BREAK.....PARKING THAT IS

After the new brake line were run, when I got home, the parking brake would not work. Tonight I finally crawled under the rear of the car and found that when the brakes were being adjusted, the nipple had pulled out of the holding bracket. 

The bracket was removed and the threads were cleaned with a wire brush, then the nut was heated with a propane torch and worked back and forth a few times to free up the threads. Then the threads were sprayed down with some WD40 and the nut was run out almost to the end of the threads. The ends were installed back in the bracket and will be adjusted tomorrow after work.

NIPPLE OUT OF HOLDING BRACKET

BRACKET REMOVED

CLEANING THE THREADS

REASSEMBLED

I don't think Gary, my mechanic over in Kirkersville, OH realized how important a parking brake is on an electric car, as there is no engine compression to hold the car when it is parked. The holding bracket was a little damaged but I am going to try to put some weld on it to bring it back to working condition.

Until next time,

Randy

MAKING NEW CONNECTIONS

Over the last three years since the Fiero was purchased and I started my journey into electric cars, many connections have been made through EVTV, DIY Electric Car, Youtube, Google Plus and this blog. Many of the ideas used on the Fiero conversion, have come from the suggestions of other builders and much help has been provided from the local builders, that are part of these connections.....But wait, that is not what this post is all about!

This morning work was started bright and early on making up the second module connections so it can be tied to the first module. Fortunately a large cache of copper and aluminum bars and angles have been built up since the conversion started, not to mention all the fasteners left over from other projects, so I started scrounging around the garage, to find all of the materials needed.

COPPER BAR IN VICE

BENT COPPER BAR

CONNECTION TEST FIT

The two half modules need to be hooked together at the other end, so I decided that would be a good location to place a fuse. I had the one that was on the car when I originally purchased it, so decided to try and find a way of mounting it between the two half modules.

FRONT MODULE FUSE TEST FIT

Alright, I have had my little coffee break and satisfied my craving to do a blog post, so BACK TO WORK!

To be continued,,,

Randy