After getting the weed eater squared away, I started with putting the HiPower batteries back in the car and hooking all the connections back up. Wouldn't you know, I still have a ground fault but now it is only 65 volts. I followed it around the pack and it changes polarity at the last cell on the negative side of the pack. This is leading me to the front to back power leads, controller, motor, or possibly the DC-DC converter. Just before I started disconnecting leads, a small package arrived.
PACK BACK IN
Light Object is amazing on their shipping as I ordered the DC-DC converter on Wednesday and it was here Saturday, with just standard USPS first class shipping. Having wired up the first one incorrectly, I went to the Light Object website and found a more detailed description of how it is wired.
POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE LEADS ATTACHED
Light Objects is a little lacking on the documentation sent with their products but usually has everything you need if you search their website and sure enough, after poking around was able to find a write up with a couple of pictures. As new meters were ordered that may have a different connector for the power side, I only soldered the 12 volt wires to the new DC-DC converter and will solder the measurement side after the new meters arrive. Most of the meters I have ordered are shipped via China Courier Service and it seems like the Slow Boat From China Syndrome! The meters are not scheduled to arrive until June 26.
Enough waiting around, I started looking around the garage for materials that could be made into the rear firewall bulkhead. Finally a dimmer switch was spotted with a housing that looked like it may just work. The rivets were drilled out and the dimmer electronics were removed. Then the search was on for a piece of sheet metal to cover the hole in the firewall and mount the housing to. Finally I came across a small square (well almost) piece of metal that would work. One edge was cut a little rough so I got out my grinder and evened up all of the sides. Then a hole was put in the middle with a hole saw, a coat of black paint was applied, and a weather proof cable gland was installed. Then a hole was put in the housing with a hole saw and the housing was bolted to the plate. The assembly was mounted over the hole in the firewall with a couple of self taping screws. Ok, I am on a roll now so started feeding the network cable, 12 volt shunt cables, and 6 more wires to use for the speedometer.and anything else that may come up later.
Enough waiting around, I started looking around the garage for materials that could be made into the rear firewall bulkhead. Finally a dimmer switch was spotted with a housing that looked like it may just work. The rivets were drilled out and the dimmer electronics were removed. Then the search was on for a piece of sheet metal to cover the hole in the firewall and mount the housing to. Finally I came across a small square (well almost) piece of metal that would work. One edge was cut a little rough so I got out my grinder and evened up all of the sides. Then a hole was put in the middle with a hole saw, a coat of black paint was applied, and a weather proof cable gland was installed. Then a hole was put in the housing with a hole saw and the housing was bolted to the plate. The assembly was mounted over the hole in the firewall with a couple of self taping screws. Ok, I am on a roll now so started feeding the network cable, 12 volt shunt cables, and 6 more wires to use for the speedometer.and anything else that may come up later.
BULKHEAD INSIDE VIEW
Thanks for visiting,
Randy
No comments:
Post a Comment