Saturday morning, readings were taken on the shunt holder studs and after finding resistance to ground, the shunt and stands were removed. New shunt holders were ordered from EBAY but the old rubber plugs were re-installed with an insulating washer to try to get ride of the resistance to ground.
SHUNT TERMINALS ORDERED ON EBAY
Then the volt/amp meter shunt wires were checked and both had K ohm readings the chassis ground. The meter that no longer lights up was hooked directly to 12 volts and it still did not light up, so it is apparent that when the positive side of the 12 volt shunt was hooked up to the 120 pack voltage positive side of the meter, it blew something in the power supply. I then checked the continuity of the good meter and found that the power supply ground wire and the high voltage side of the meter's grounds were a dead short, so these meters are not isolated. I have new meter ordered from EBAY and ordered a 12 volt to 12 volt isolation DC-DC converter to isolate the meter' power supply ground from the traction pack ground.
DC-DC 12 VOLT ISOLATION CONVERTER
Then the solid state relay was mounted on the firewall and the control and negative side of the pack voltage wires were connected. I ordered a 20 amp, 120-180 volt dc fuse from EBAY that will go on the positive wire going to the traction pack. A micro switch will be added to the heater control to energize the solid state relay.
SOLID STATE HEATER RELAY
Also a new driver's side parking/blinker lamp socket was installed.
NEW PARKING/BLINKER LAMP SOCKET
Not a bad day, considering I also fixed my son's Fiance's speedometer and tachometer problem, helped clean the house, and took everyone to dinner at J Gumbo's. Hopefully all of the parts are on their way to fix the remaining problems.
Thanks for stopping by,